Also known as the "Amanda" journey, this one occurred August 13th-26th, 2009. I drove solo to Tulsa, picking up Deb and Amanda at the airport. From Tulsa we drove through western Oklahoma, camping one night and doing some easier hikes. We also tackled the hike leading to Oklahoma's highest point, atop Black Mesa, near the border with New Mexico. From there we proceeded west, camping and hiking until the big day arrived. The goal of this trip was to climb our highest mountain to date, deep in Valle Vidal, NM. We ended up camping for six nights in two tents, always at campgrounds. We managed 8 hikes as a team, plus I did two solo ones in Missouri on my drive west from home. Once again Beorn the VW Tuareg took us everywhere in comfort, managing to transport 3 people, all their camping gear and clothing, and a week's worth of groceries high into the mountains. Though we didn't do any real off road driving (that was not our goal), a few back road drives gave the vehicle a decent workout.
PART 1: SOLO DRIVE TO TULSA
I have selected four photos to represent my solo drive to Tulsa from Detroit. All four are from Missouri stops. I spent my first night in Vandalia, IL. Next day I made one hiking stop. My second night was spent in Springfield, MO, where I also hiked next morning.
Meramec Spring, MO. About a twenty minute drive from the St. James Winery exit, I was able to hike in the scenic woodlands. The area is privately owned, and charges a fee to enter.
Always a favourite stop in Springfield, MO.
Hiking at Springfield Conservation Nature Centre. This area is an excellent introduction to the Ozark Plateau.
My solo Ozark hike in Springfield.
PART 2: THREE IN OKLAHOMA
I took 2 1/2 days to reach Tulsa, picking up Amanda and Deb just before 4 pm on Day 3. Deb flew in from Detroit, while Amanda travelled from Buffalo. We spent time at Gardner's Book Store, before moving on to Whole Foods Market, where we had some dinner and did some grocery shopping. We drove two hours to Enid, where we stayed at the Lazy H Motel. It was a warm and breezy evening (85 degrees F), and we sat outside with a newly opened bottle of Jim Beam. The courtyard garden had a gurgling fountain and a lamp post and lantern from Narnia. It was an auspicious beginning to our adventures.
Our first adventure together came at western Oklahoma's Glass, or Gloss, Mountains, a series of bright red mesas that pop up suddenly on the flat horizon. The highway passes through the center of them, but a pullout and a trail await the adventurous. The trail involves a staircase to the top of a mesa, and then an easy walking trail across the flat top, overlooking other mesas and hilltops. We were alone on the trail, and this would become a theme of the trip. I know of no other place with as much solitude to offer as New Mexico, and now I can offer western Oklahoma, too.
Further down the road we came to Boiling Springs State Park. Here we embarked on a longer hike, and a much warmer one, as the day was bright and sunny. The springs seem to boil up from the ground, and they all flow into the Canadian River, which can be visited on the hike.
One of the features of a road trip is that one is always on the move, never staying long at any one place. This trip was planned out carefully, with a definite goal in mind. We had a certain amount of leisure time each day, but we had to reach our night time goal at the end of it. Tonight we would be undertaking the first of our six camping nights, and the first of five in a row. We were heading for Black Mesa State Park at the far west end of the state, and we still had a lot of driving to do.
Before reaching the campground, we stopped off in Boise City, where we managed to find a small bar! It was near the end of the day, and we weren't far from the park. We were soon all enjoying Corona beer. It was Amanda's round. Three beer and tip, and she got change for her $10 US! The two ladies went grocery shopping while I gassed up Beorn, and then we headed into the twilight zone.
It was a dark and star-filled sky that night, but much to our surprise we awoke to dense fog. We had been worried about getting an early start on our biggest Oklahoma hike so we wouldn't be caught atop the mesa when it became hot. We needn't have worried. It remained foggy during the entire hike, limiting our views to our immediate surroundings, instead of seeing far into Colorado and New Mexico. It was also a very chilly hike, and we didn't linger long at the marker that sits atop the highest point in Oklahoma. Still, it was an atmospheric morning, and new in our experience for this part of the world. We aced the 8.6 mile hike, which gained 700' of elevation. We safely and easily reached 4973' before returning to the vehicle. For the rest of the trip we would be sleeping considerably higher than today's summit! After the hike it was a short drive to New Mexico, and it was sunny!
Trailhead at Black Mesa, OK, on a foggy August morning.
The hike began and ended at lower right on the topo map. With an elevation gain of 700' and a one-way climb of 4.3 miles, this is not a trail to tackle on a hot summer day. The fog was a blessing. North is to the right.
Deb climbs Black Mesa, on her way to the Oklahoma state high point.
Amanda and Deb near the top. Normally there would be long distance scenic views from that bench. But not today.
PART 3: NEW MEXICO
No sooner did we cross the state line than the sun came out, and the world turned back into one of bright colours! This part of New Mexico was new territory for Deb and I, being the extreme north east corner. We drove towards familiar territory though, eventually arriving at Folsom, Capulin Mountain, and Johnson Mesa. We drove on good highways, 2-lane blacktop, all the way back into civilization. Because Amanda had been cheated of distant views from her first big climb, we decided to take her up Capulin Mountain, a National Monument with some of the best scenery in NM. The drive to the top of the extinct volcano is an easy one, and two short hikes await up there. One hike descends into the crater, while the more fun one circles the rim on a 1 mile walk that climbs 300'. Views in all directions are indescribably beautiful, and the trail itself has beautiful rocks, lichens, wind-shaped trees, and, in August, thousands of ladybugs. After the walk we stopped at the visitor center to freshen up and watch the short film describing the site. We made our own espresso at the picnic area, then carried on the journey. That involved a stopover in downtown Folsom, at their unique museum. We all went our own separate ways, calling out occasionally to the others to come see some strange discovery one of us had made. Afterwards we drove up to Johnson Mesa, with views deep into Colorado high country, and then we dropped down towards our night's goal, Sugarite Canyon State Park.
Entering north east NM from Oklahoma.
A road trip is only as good as its roads. This trip had some fantastic roads!
Approaching Capulin National Monument. Travellers can drive to the summit, then hike a loop trail around the volcanic rim.
View of Sierra Grande, a much more massive extinct volcano, as seen from the Rim Trail atop Capulin Mountain.
Ladybugs gather atop Capulin Mountain.
Deb and Amanda try not to fall off Capulin Mountain. The scenery runs toward the spectacular.
The Folsom Museum, a highlight of downtown Folsom, NM. Nearby were discovered the remains of Folsom Man.
Our very private campsite, Sugarite State Park, NM. Deb prepares our tent.
Sugarite Sunset.
After a good night's rest, we were ready for a challenging hike at the state park. We were up early, and once again set out on a major hike on a foggy morning. This was our first hike of the journey at respectably high altitudes, starting at 7500' and climbing to 8270'. It was also one of the most beautiful and perfect hikes I have ever undertaken. We began at Lake Maloya, whose northern end is in Colorado, and gradually made our way up top to Little Horse Mesa, with views that were astounding, especially with traces of fog remaining. The subsequent descent took us to within a few meters of the state line with Colorado, through a field of wildflowers that had to be seen to be believed. Though part of the hike was challenging, for the most part (being in the condition we were in) it was a beautiful walk in the park.
We began the hike at Lake Maloya. View looks north towards Colorado. We were hiking right near the state line.
The trail quickly gains elevation, topping out atop Horse Mesa.
We could see these red cliffs from our campground. Now we were visiting them up close and personal. The mesa top was flat and wooded.
By 1:30 pm we had packed up our gear and were back on the road, this time for the long drive up to Valle Vidal. The trip continues on Page Two of this blog.
Mapman Mike
