Please read Part 1 first...
DAY 3
In this blogger's opinion, a road trip is one that does not sacrifice the roadside for getting somewhere fast. It is not about how few stops can be made on an epic voyage, and how fast they can be done. Even our fairly lengthy first day from Detroit to Terre Haute offered up a high point stop in Indiana. The 2nd day was an easy cruise into St. Louis, a half day of driving with a long stop at Driftstone Pueblo gift store. Day 3 was also a relatively easy drive, from St. Louis to Springfield, MO. I 44, the main highway, was built right over top of the old Route 66, so there is no single alternate highway to take between the two cities. As we wanted to spend some time in Springfield, the interstate served us well for today.
It is a glorious ride into the Ozarks, a vast plateau eaten away by rivers big and small, until it has the appearance of mountains. There are several dramatic dips into forested and steep valleys, immediately followed by a respective climb back out. Truckers must lament such roads, but in a VW Golf, they are a wonder to behold. It makes me wonder what Route 66 might have done with such obstacles, as interstates tend to smooth things over considerably. Even so, it is a fun ride. The top of the plateau reaches around 1500' of elevation, much higher than the Indiana high point from yesterday.
Our first stop was at St. James Winery, also partner with Rolla, MO's Public House Brewery. We stopped for a bathroom break and to purchase four cans of ale to bring home as souvenirs. The winery/beer shop opens at 8 am! The pub itself, adjacent, didn't open till 11 am, and we had left well before then. The female clerk gave us directions to take a back road into Rolla, our first major stop of the day.
Why Rolla? Well, because Stonehenge is there. Yup. You heard me right. Stonehenge. Brought stone by stone from its old resting place in England. Well, that hasn't really happened (yet), but a local astronomer, obsessed with its calendrical features (mostly hogwash except for the solstice marker, which so many "primitive" sites do anyway), caused a 1/2 replica to be built on the local college campus. But he has extended its capabilities by adding an analema! This was a really fun stop, especially as it was March 30th, so close to equinox. The sun chart was dead on!
Deb appears to do a ceremonial dance at Rolla's Stonehenge. Or something.
Two of the stones are aligned so that the north star appears between them. It's magic! Just to Deb's left is the analema.
The analema follows the path of the sun throughout the 12 months. We hit right near equinox, where the sun's path crosses itself! A stopover anytime of year would tell you accurately what part of which month it is! I want one.
Follow the path of the sun on the stone analema. An analema is the path in the sky the sun follows over the course of one year.
After Rolla comes Springfield. Home of the original Bass Pro Shops store, we made our second visit here. I ended up buying some very inexpensive jeans, while Deb left with two shirts. We also purchased a pound of coffee for Brandon, our next door neighbour who looked after our house while we were away. The "store" is an amazing place, though I somehow missed the aquarium bar (an enormous aquarium behind the bartender, where you can sit and drink and watch fish). Next time for sure!
We next headed to The Coffee Ethic, a familiar caffeine stop for me, but Deb's first time. We parked the car (free) downtown and walked for the rest of the day. The cafe is right on the main public square, facing the action. Next door was the public library, which seemed to attract the homeless. After our beverages were consumed, we left with a more sprightly step than when we had entered. We also had some espresso coffee beans to bring home.
Inside The Coffee Ethic, downtown Springfield, MO. We left with one of those little blue boxes of coffee beans, seen near the tee shirts on the left.
We continued on to nearby Springfield Brewery, my third visit and Deb's first. We enjoyed a flight of ales (I had three samples, while Deb had one, a lighter ale). I also left with a mixed six pack.
Springfield Brewery had to wait nearly five years for my return. I'm certain they were jubilant, especially as I'd brought a friend this time.
We still had two more stops to make before heading to our hotel for the night. A return visit for me to Mothers Brewery was called for. It was busy, they had the best tap list of the entire journey, and we enjoyed our second flight of the day. I left with a six pack of their coffee porter, which I had sampled and rather enjoyed. They had a pretty good swag shop, too. A must place to visit while in Springfield.
The bottling plant is behind the shop window. See the Winter Grind display? I left with a six pack of bottles.
One of the best breweries out there! Can't wait to return.
Lastly came our dinner stop, a small vegan restaurant within walking distance. Called Bosky's Vegan Grille, we had a very tasty meal, along with long chats with our server. I had a Feesh Taco and a No Beef Slider. Both were delicious. Deb had the Chickn Sandwich with Potato Salad. Happy tummies afterwards made their way to our hotel for the night. Deb bought a tee shirt.
DAY 4
It was Friday, and time to drive south to Crystal Bridges, a museum of American Art I have wanted to visit for a long time. It was also tornado day for a lot of folk around us; seriously bad weather had been predicted for today since Monday night, before we even left for home. We chose back roads to Bentonville, Arkansas, a drive of about 2 1/2 hours. We had a great Thai lunch in downtown Bentonville (world capital of Wal-Mart, where their head offices are located). The incredible art museum where we were headed was entirely funded by the Wal-Mart fortune. And they are supporting many smaller museums around the US, too.
Our GPS was of no help in getting us to the museum, so we had to use old fashioned tech. We stopped and asked a guy where it was, and he gave us great directions. It was very warm and very windy upon arrival. Crystal Bridges Museum is an indoor/outdoor art museum, with a lot of nature and sculpture trails. We would begin inside, then switch to outside, then return inside, and finally take a self-guided tour of an adjacent house designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.
It's difficult to say what the highlight would be at this place. The architectural design is astounding. It doesn't overwhelm a person, but it doesn't underwhelm one, either. The main lobby is very much in the fashion of a modern, very smart airport terminal. It contains the ticket booths (entry is free, but special exhibits are charged), information booths, gift shop, cafe, and large restaurant with lots and lots of seating. Views from the seating area include some of the large ponds and woodland just outside, as well as views of other parts of the complex.
The inside art galleries are set up so that visitors walk a circle tour of rooms, many lit by floor to ceiling windows, and others smaller and intimate, with suitable lighting. The collection begins with early American art and continues through ultra contemporary. The end loops back to the restaurant and cafeteria.
View from the main interior looking towards an outdoor patio.
There was a huge exhibit of works by Diego Rivera featuring things he had created while in America. We simply had no time after visiting the permanent collection, walking outside, coming back in to rest and have coffee, and then setting off to tour the Frank Lloyd Wright House. We did take a long look at the catalogue for the exhibit, and it looked fantastic. Included were some major works by Frida Kahlo. That made two major exhibits we had to pass on (Monet in St. Louis).
Exterior views of the Frank Lloyd Wright house, on the grounds at Crystal Bridges. No inside photos were allowed, but we were able to take a (free) self guided tour of the interior. The main attraction is the large living room (see top photo), with views out into the woods. A beautiful experience.
The wind was really howling now. Earlier, we had watched very dark clouds to our southeast, and we knew someone somewhere was getting whacked by the weather. We had been spared, and it was sunny, very mild, but extremely windy. We prepared for departure, still having a fair drive to Fort Smith, Arkansas, where our hotel awaited. The Crystal Bridges experience had been quite overwhelming after all, and one we would wish to repeat. It should be noted here that a major expansion of the museum is underway. When completed, it might prove too much for a day visit, but local people would certainly benefit. Only about 10% of their art is currently ever on display.
The drive to Fort Smith, south along I 49, is even more scenic and full of giant hills than the ride down from St. Louis to Springfield. There are at least ten major descents and climbs along the interstate. This time there is a very mountainous alternative route, but we were tired and evening was approaching. At one point there is even a long highway tunnel, adding drama to the scenery around us. The trees had not leafed out yet, otherwise it would be have an overdose of scenery.
Fort Smith was built to keep peace between warring Native tribes at the time, and it was deemed successful. Today what is left is yet another beautiful and large riverside park. The river is the Arkansas, which we have previously encountered in Tulsa, OK, and Dodge City, KS. And we would see it a lot more often once we were in Little Rock.
We were now hearing reports of the day's tornadoes, including a devastating one in North Little Rock, just across the river from Little Rock itself. The weather was continuing on northeast, and would be responsible for at least 27 deaths before it had run its course. And we had dodged it nicely. There is a fairly comprehensive Wikipedia article about that outbreak, the 3rd worst every recorded in the world.
Some of the tornado damage to hit North Little Rock on Friday, March 31st. Photo taken from Wikipedia article about the outbreak.
A sign in the park in downtown Fort Smith. We were at this exact location, but right at the river.
Riverfront park, Fort Smith, AR. Across the river is Oklahoma.
My only photo taken downtown Fort Smith. Radical!
The downtown itself had an abandoned feel to it. The one viable restaurant of interest to us was packed out the door (it was a Friday night), so we left. We were staying in an adjacent community called Van Buren. Their little downtown main street was pretty funky, and we managed to find a brew pub with some vegan food. Pointer Brewery was quaint, quiet, and welcoming. We sipped a delicious flight and ordered food. Deb ordered a noodle bowl which she really liked, but my order of kimchee was so spicy it was inedible. I had only one bite and never was able to taste my beer afterwards.
Walking around downtown in twilight afterwards we came across a small park where a commercial building obviously once stood. There was a plaque dedicated to a group of people who had lost their lives there on June 21st 1985. Google that date with "Van Buren Arkansas" to get the tragic story. Yargh! In happier notes, there was an art gallery opening tonight, and in addition to looking at some fine art, I also scored a few free cookies! Sadly the wine wasn't free.
Inside Pointer Brewery.
Downtown Van Buren at twilight. It seemed much more welcoming than downtown Fort Smith.
Once settled into our hotel for the night, we were halfway through our journey. Another huge day of sightseeing awaited us tomorrow, as well as the drive down to Little Rock. Please join me for Part Three, which includes a visit to the Arkansas State High Point.
Mapman Mike
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