Ozark Roadtrip Part 2

Please read Part 1 first...

DAY 3

In this blogger's opinion, a road trip is one that does not sacrifice the roadside for getting somewhere fast.  It is not about how few stops can be made on an epic voyage, and how fast they can be done.  Even our fairly lengthy first day from Detroit to Terre Haute offered up a high point stop in Indiana.  The 2nd day was an easy cruise into St. Louis, a half day of driving with a long stop at Driftstone Pueblo gift store.  Day 3 was also a relatively easy drive, from St. Louis to Springfield, MO.  I 44, the main highway, was built right over top of the old Route 66, so there is no single alternate highway to take between the two cities.  As we wanted to spend some time in Springfield, the interstate served us well for today.

Double bridge under repair across the Mississippi River, just south of St. Louis.  We were on our way into the Ozarks, heading for Springfield.  Deb's phone camera photo.

It is a glorious ride into the Ozarks, a vast plateau eaten away by rivers big and small, until it has the appearance of mountains.  There are several dramatic dips into forested and steep valleys, immediately followed by a respective climb back out.  Truckers must lament such roads, but in a VW Golf, they are a wonder to behold.  It makes me wonder what Route 66 might have done with such obstacles, as interstates tend to smooth things over considerably.  Even so, it is a fun ride.  The top of the plateau reaches around 1500' of elevation, much higher than the Indiana high point from yesterday.

Our first stop was at St. James Winery, also partner with Rolla, MO's Public House Brewery.  We stopped for a bathroom break and to purchase four cans of ale to bring home as souvenirs.  The winery/beer shop opens at 8 am!  The pub itself, adjacent, didn't open till 11 am, and we had left well before then.  The female clerk gave us directions to take a back road into Rolla, our first major stop of the day.

Why Rolla?  Well, because Stonehenge is there.  Yup.  You heard me right.  Stonehenge.  Brought stone by stone from its old resting place in England.  Well, that hasn't really happened (yet), but a local astronomer, obsessed with its calendrical features (mostly hogwash except for the solstice marker, which so many "primitive" sites do anyway), caused a 1/2 replica to be built on the local college campus.  But he has extended its capabilities by adding an analema!  This was a really fun stop, especially as it was March 30th, so close to equinox.  The sun chart was dead on!

Deb appears to do a ceremonial dance at Rolla's Stonehenge.  Or something.

 

Two of the stones are aligned so that the north star appears between them.  It's magic!  Just to Deb's left is the analema.

 

The analema follows the path of the sun throughout the 12 months.  We hit right near equinox, where the sun's path crosses itself!  A stopover anytime of year would tell you accurately what part of which month it is!  I want one.

 

Follow the path of the sun on the stone analema.  An analema is the path in the sky the sun follows over the course of one year.

After Rolla comes Springfield.  Home of the original Bass Pro Shops store, we made our second visit here.  I ended up buying some very inexpensive jeans, while Deb left with two shirts.  We also purchased a pound of coffee for Brandon, our next door neighbour who looked after our house while we were away.  The "store" is an amazing place, though I somehow missed the aquarium bar (an enormous aquarium behind the bartender, where you can sit and drink and watch fish).  Next time for sure!

I stopped at Bass Pro Shops in Springfield to chat with a friend.

 

The stores are mostly aimed at "sportsmen," and this restored old bus with trailer and canoe caught our eye.  Deb's phone camera photo.

 

We next headed to The Coffee Ethic, a familiar caffeine stop for me, but Deb's first time.  We parked the car (free) downtown and walked for the rest of the day.  The cafe is right on the main public square, facing the action.  Next door was the public library, which seemed to attract the homeless.  After our beverages were consumed, we left with a more sprightly step than when we had entered.  We also had some espresso coffee beans to bring home.

Inside The Coffee Ethic, downtown Springfield, MO.  We left with one of those little blue boxes of coffee beans, seen near the tee shirts on the left.

The Coffee Ethic exterior.  I was here 4 1/2 years ago, on my last journey west. 

 

We continued on to nearby Springfield Brewery, my third visit and Deb's first.  We enjoyed a flight of ales (I had three samples, while Deb had one, a lighter ale).  I also left with a mixed six pack. 

 Springfield Brewery had to wait nearly five years for my return.  I'm certain they were jubilant, especially as I'd brought a friend this time.

 

We still had two more stops to make before heading to our hotel for the night.  A return visit for me to Mothers Brewery was called for.  It was busy, they had the best tap list of the entire journey, and we enjoyed our second flight of the day.  I left with a six pack of their coffee porter, which I had sampled and rather enjoyed.  They had a pretty good swag shop, too.  A must place to visit while in Springfield.

 

The bottling plant is behind the shop window.  See the Winter Grind display?  I left with a six pack of bottles.

 

One of the best breweries out there!  Can't wait to return. 

Lastly came our dinner stop, a small vegan restaurant within walking distance.  Called Bosky's Vegan Grille, we had a very tasty meal, along with long chats with our server.  I had a Feesh Taco and a No Beef Slider.  Both were delicious.  Deb had the Chickn Sandwich with Potato Salad.  Happy tummies afterwards made their way to our hotel for the night.  Deb bought a tee shirt.

 

DAY 4 

It was Friday, and time to drive south to Crystal Bridges, a museum of American Art I have wanted to visit for a long time.  It was also tornado day for a lot of folk around us; seriously bad weather had been predicted for today since Monday night, before we even left for home.  We chose back roads to Bentonville, Arkansas, a drive of about 2 1/2 hours.  We had a great Thai lunch in downtown Bentonville (world capital of Wal-Mart, where their head offices are located).  The incredible art museum where we were headed was entirely funded by the Wal-Mart fortune.  And they are supporting many smaller museums around the US, too.  

Our GPS was of no help in getting us to the museum, so we had to use old fashioned tech.  We stopped and asked a guy where it was, and he gave us great directions.  It was very warm and very windy upon arrival.  Crystal Bridges Museum is an indoor/outdoor art museum, with a lot of nature and sculpture trails.  We would begin inside, then switch to outside, then return inside, and finally take a self-guided tour of an adjacent house designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.

It's difficult to say what the highlight would be at this place.  The architectural design is astounding.  It doesn't overwhelm a person, but it doesn't underwhelm one, either.  The main lobby is very much in the fashion of a modern, very smart airport terminal.  It contains the ticket booths (entry is free, but special exhibits are charged), information booths, gift shop, cafe, and large restaurant with lots and lots of seating.  Views from the seating area include some of the large ponds and woodland just outside, as well as views of other parts of the complex.

The inside art galleries are set up so that visitors walk a circle tour of rooms, many lit by floor to ceiling windows, and others smaller and intimate, with suitable lighting.  The collection begins with early American art and continues through ultra contemporary.  The end loops back to the restaurant and cafeteria.

View from the main interior looking towards an outdoor patio. 

A look back towards the main area, with the cafe and restaurant seating.  The patio from the earlier shot is on the left. 

 

View from central area towards the group meeting room and gardens and pathways. 

 

Ceiling of the main cafe sitting area. 

 

Gallery hallway.  Behind the modern mural is an interior gallery, with a similar walkway opposite.

 

Opposite side of previous shot, with interior gallery behind wall on left. 

 

Crucified Land, by Alexandre Hogue. 

 

A work by Maxfield Parrish. 

 

Unknown artist.... 

 

We found out by chatting with a guard that the paintings are frequently changed.  A monthly visit would see many different works each time. 

 

Nature takes on a huge role in the outdoor experience. 

 

A small herd of deer wandered about during our outdoor hike. 

 

Sitting inside a large geodesic dome designed by Buckminster Fuller in a large woodland is a very fine experience! 

 

One of the walks featured imported rocks with crystals, in a secluded little alcove. 

 

There was a huge exhibit of works by Diego Rivera featuring things he had created while in America.  We simply had no time after visiting the permanent collection, walking outside, coming back in to rest and have coffee, and then setting off to tour the Frank Lloyd Wright House. We did take a long look at the catalogue for the exhibit, and it looked fantastic.  Included were some major works by Frida Kahlo.  That made two major exhibits we had to pass on (Monet in St. Louis).

Exterior views of the Frank Lloyd Wright house, on the grounds at Crystal Bridges.  No inside photos were allowed, but we were able to take a (free) self guided tour of the interior.  The main attraction is the large living room (see top photo), with views out into the woods.  A beautiful experience.  

The wind was really howling now.  Earlier, we had watched very dark clouds to our southeast, and we knew someone somewhere was getting whacked by the weather.  We had been spared, and it was sunny, very mild, but extremely windy.  We prepared for departure, still having a fair drive to Fort Smith, Arkansas, where our hotel awaited.  The Crystal Bridges experience had been quite overwhelming after all, and one we would wish to repeat.  It should be noted here that a major expansion of the museum is underway.  When completed, it might prove too much for a day visit, but local people would certainly benefit.   Only about 10% of their art is currently ever on display.  

The drive to Fort Smith, south along I 49, is even more scenic and full of giant hills than the ride down from St. Louis to Springfield.  There are at least ten major descents and climbs along the interstate.  This time there is a very mountainous alternative route, but we were tired and evening was approaching.  At one point there is even a long highway tunnel, adding drama to the scenery around us.  The trees had not leafed out yet, otherwise it would be have an overdose of scenery.

Fort Smith was built to keep peace between warring Native tribes at the time, and it was deemed successful.  Today what is left is yet another beautiful and large riverside park.  The river is the Arkansas, which we have previously encountered in Tulsa, OK, and Dodge City, KS.  And we would see it a lot more often once we were in Little Rock.  

 

We were now hearing reports of the day's tornadoes, including a devastating one in North Little Rock, just across the river from Little Rock itself.  The weather was continuing on northeast, and would be responsible for at least 27 deaths before it had run its course.  And we had dodged it nicely.  There is a fairly comprehensive Wikipedia article about that outbreak, the 3rd worst every recorded in the world.

Some of the tornado damage to hit North Little Rock on Friday, March 31st.  Photo taken from Wikipedia article about the outbreak.

A sign in the park in downtown Fort Smith.  We were at this exact location, but right at the river. 

Riverfront park, Fort Smith, AR.  Across the river is Oklahoma. 

My only photo taken downtown Fort Smith.  Radical!

The downtown itself had an abandoned feel to it.  The one viable restaurant of interest to us was packed out the door (it was a Friday night), so we left.  We were staying in an adjacent community called Van Buren.  Their little downtown main street was pretty funky, and we managed to find a brew pub with some vegan food.  Pointer Brewery was quaint, quiet, and welcoming.  We sipped a delicious flight and ordered food.  Deb ordered a noodle bowl which she really liked, but my order of kimchee was so spicy it was inedible.  I had only one bite and never was able to taste my beer afterwards.

Walking around downtown in twilight afterwards we came across a small park where a commercial building obviously once stood.  There was a plaque dedicated to a group of people who had lost their lives there on June 21st 1985.  Google that date with "Van Buren Arkansas" to get the tragic story.  Yargh!  In happier notes, there was an art gallery opening tonight, and in addition to looking at some fine art, I also scored a few free cookies!  Sadly the wine wasn't free.

Inside Pointer Brewery. 

Downtown Van Buren at twilight.  It seemed much more welcoming than downtown Fort Smith. 

Once settled into our hotel for the night, we were halfway through our journey.  Another huge day of sightseeing awaited us tomorrow, as well as the drive down to Little Rock.  Please join me for Part Three, which includes a visit to the Arkansas State High Point.

Mapman Mike

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Ozark Roadtrip Part 1

It's been over four years since Deb and I undertook any travel not related to family visits.  We were way overdue, especially for a road trip.  Last autumn I planned a short jaunt along the Ohio River, which has yet to be undertaken.   I also planned a few different entries into New Mexico, still awaiting their day.  And then, finally, came the present trip, doable in 8 or 9 days, exploring places mostly new, but with a few old favourites in there, too.  And so the Ozark trip was born, and it turned into a classic and very fun expedition.  In all, we drove 2272 miles in 8 days of travel (7 nights).

 

We planned to get as far as Little Rock, AR, where I had an unmet Facebook friend, also interested in the Ballantine Fantasy series.  We would also take in St. Louis,  enjoy a return visit to Springfield, MO, and then head down into Arkansas.  On one morning we would also dip into Oklahoma.  Here, then, were the main goals of the journey:  summit two state high points, to add to our small but growing list of accomplishments in that area; visit two fabulous art museums; visit two prehistoric earthwork sites; visit with Luke and Jenna in Little Rock; sample (and purchase) craft beer and craft coffee; try some new vegan restaurants.

Day 1

We drove from our house (essentially Detroit, MI) to Terre Haute, IN.  But not by the usual route.  We took a slightly longer way south, turning southwest from I 75 just before Dayton, OH to reach the Indiana State High Point.  There is no hill to speak of, but the highest point sits in a lovely micro forest.  Though on private land, high-pointers are welcome.  There is a picnic table, very small parking area, and a mailbox with guest book to sign.  We spent about fifteen minutes here before making tracks towards I 70.

 

This is one of the lowest of the state high points.  No nose bleeds here.  We are already 2 degrees latitude south of home, however.  There were some wildflowers blooming.

 

Deb returns the guest book after signing it. It is still very early spring, even this far south of Detroit.  And it was pretty chilly, too.  But soon this little woodland would be a magical place to stop and contemplate Mt. Everest and its kin.

Our VW Golf at the Indiana State Highpoint.  When I first stepped out of the car, I found 8 shiny new quarters on the ground, making this a financially beneficial stop.  The quarters came in handy when we had to park in downtown St. Louis next day.  A small gift from the gods of travel. 

 

Many of our lunches were eaten in small town Subway shops.  Virtually every town in North America has a Subway, and their veggie sub (no cheese) with whole grain bread makes a very decent lunch.  Did I mention that it is also cheap?  Coffee on some driving days meant truck stop brew, but a few of those chain places (Pilot, for one) have pretty decent coffee.  Today we found cold brew to fortify us as we headed through Indianapolis towards Terre Haute.

 

Terre Haute is often the first overnight stop on a drive west, and this trip was no exception.  It has breweries, cafes, a great Indian restaurant, and a fantastic sushi place.  There is also a riverside park.  Our hotel, a Quality Inn, was on the very outskirts of downtown.  We planned it so that we could leave the car at the hotel and walk everywhere that evening.  It was a 15 minute walk to Moggers Pub, a craft beer haven.  I ordered a flight of six brews (one for Deb), and we split a very tasty bean burger.  The final section of this trip blog will deal with craft breweries, and I will include Moggers.

As pretty a sight to a thirsty traveller as can be.  A flight at Mogger's Pub, Terre Haute, IN.  Note the new backpack, purchased especially for this journey.

 

After dinner we walked back to the river, about 20 minutes away, and within site of our motel.  It was sunny but chilly, with a sharp wind.  The Wabash River was at flood stage, nothing unusual for this time of year, but a good chunk of the park was in the river.  Not the trails, however.  After staying until nearly sunset, we retired to our room for the evening.  First day of travel had gone well, and we were looking forward to a day in St. Louis tomorrow.

 

The Wabash River was flooding in Terre Haute on our evening visit. 

 

We would have really good weather on this trip, with temps eventually reaching into the low 80s further south.  However, strong winds would become a theme, as well as dodging some severe weather.  The moon is at first quarter on our first night away. 

 

 

DAY TWO: ST. LOUIS 

 

Before leaving Terre Haute we made one more stopover.  They have a massive courthouse which I had never entered, always being in a rush to head west towards NM.  This trip there was time for our first inside visit.

 

The courthouse in Terre Haute, taken from our hotel parking lot the evening before our first visit. 

 

We had to go through an airport-style security check, but once in we could wander at will.  There were four large murals in the lobby showing some of the early history of the town, and a view straight up towards the dome, high above.  There were ornamental staircases and lamps, wooden doors twelve feet high leading into offices and courtrooms (all in use on a Wednesday morning) , and a sense that this building would still be standing well after the nuclear holocaust.

 

One of four large murals relating the history of Terre Haute.

 

Ornamental railings inside the courthouse.

Looking down into the lobby from the third floor.  The building has been lovingly looked after.

We were soon on the road, heading southwest across Illinois.  We had gained an hour this morning, and were hoping to arrive at the St Louis Art Museum around noon.  Our main stop in Illinois was at Driftstone Pueblo Indian Crafts store, a little bit of the southwest in the mid west.  They have really beautiful things here, such as kachinas, wall art, jewellery, and clothing.  We bought a tiny skull carved from some kind of stone with lots of purple in it, and a fresh cedar and sage smudge stick.  It's a fun place to stop and browse.  Deb is always on the lookup for a certain type of kachina, but we haven't found one yet.  Even so, there were several exceptional ones here worth buying.

 

On the approach to St. Louis on I 70, the highway passes close enough to Cahokia Mounds that the main mound can be easily seen while whizzing past at 70 mph.  Shortly thereafter comes the arch and the downtown buildings.  There are any amount of bridges crossing the Mississippi River here, and we flew over one of them.  Usually on a trip west, the St. Louis river crossing marks the lowest point of the journey.  However, this time we would be even lower than the 400' of altitude found here.

 

Crossing the Mississippi River from Illinois into Missouri.  Deb was able to snap a pic with her phone. 

 

 

The main entrance to the St. Louis Museum of Art.

View from the front public space of the museum.  It was another fine day!

 

View of the great hall inside the art museum, looking towards the front entrance.  There was a special exhibit on that featured Monet paintings paired with an American artist heavily influenced by the French master.  However, we gave it a pass, as we were here to see the permanent collection, our first visit since about 1988.

 

We spent four hours strolling the galleries, which were fairly busy for a weekday in late March.  There was a main restaurant with some vegan options, and a smaller cafe with same.  We chose the cafe, having our lunch here and then later a coffee break.  There is a lot of art worth mentioning, including the huge collection of works by Max Beckman.  Their Monet paintings were in the special exhibit, so we missed those.  And there was no sign of their Van Gogh painting, which had been in the Detroit exhibit.  Here is a visual tour of some of the highlights.  It really is a great museum, and deserves to be visited by us more often.

Deb studies Max Beckman's epic "Sinking of the Titantic." 

 

The Red Staircase, by Ben Shahn, a powerful anti-war work.  As a child I had a dream about this painting.  When I first encountered it in St. Louis in 1988 I nearly fell over.  One of those mysteries that is not worth pondering.

 

An accurate depiction of the constellations with their brightest stars, I have always wanted to see one of these things!  It was totally amazing!!  Cygnus and Lyra are showing prominently in this view, with Cepheus above them. 

 

A Bruegelesque work by Thomas Hart Benton. 

 

Museum Interior. 

 

Rear entrance, from the sculpture garden. 

 

A small landscape by Casper David Friedrich. 

 

NM Pueblo pottery.

NM Pubelo pottery. 

 

Gustav Dore. 

 

After a lengthy and very rewarding museum visit, we headed downtown for our first close up view of the arch.  We used my found quarters in a parking meter near the river and walked into the vast park system adjacent to the Mississippi.  The arch is such a brilliant thing that it is difficult to express how amazing it is.  Having seen it from afar while passing by many times, I can honestly say that I was astounded at its audacity, not to mention its huge scale.  It's difficult to grasp just how large and high this thing is until you are almost underneath it.  It's a bit of a mind blower!  It is 630' high!!

 

 

Even from fairly close it is difficult to grasp the scale of this thing.  It's big enough to ride up inside and look out from tiny windows!  At least they look tiny from down here.

 

This view reminds me of the trajectory of a rocket after launching.  The viewing windows can be seen, and the moon is now a day larger.

Just how big is the arch?  Here is the base of it, with three children playing.

 

 

Access to the river from the downtown park in St. Louis.

We did not get a chance this time to visit downtown proper.
 

We sat a long time in the park, resting our weary museum feet, and did some riverside walking before setting out for dinner.  Seedz Cafe was chosen because it was close to the museum.  Also because it is completely vegan.  But we were now downtown, so it meant a trip back a ways.  Like Detroit (almost a sister city, though St. Louis is only slightly more than half as big) the expressways will get you where you want to go quickly and directly.  We found parking very close by, and were soon enjoying a late evening meal and stroll afterwards.  The neighbourhood was totally charming, and included a playground full of children playing before bedtime, and watching parents standing around talking.  After dinner we headed back over the river, as we were staying in East St. Louis, back in Illinois.

So far two days down, and a good time was being had by all.  However, that night as were preparing for bed I realized I had lost a ring.  A beautiful silver ring with a turquoise stone I had purchased from the craftsman in Abiquiu, NM.  It was a terrible loss, and I realized it must have fallen off my finger somewhere within the art museum.  It wouldn't open until 11 am tomorrow, so we would be leaving town without checking.  A phone call later on would be in order.

Deb's after dinner photo.

Part Two Coming Soon!

Mapman Mike