Wednesday, April 24, 2024

The Deep South: Part 4--Cheaha Mountain and Montgomery

The rain we had encountered the previous day continued into the next morning, and we were surrounded by low clouds.  This was to be the day in which we achieved the highest point of the trip, atop the highest point in Alabama.  The state goes from sea level down at the Gulf coast (Mobile, for example) to over 2400' in the Appalachians east of Birmingham.  Like the Arkansas highpoint, this one gives you a real feel of mountains, thickly forested and with some outstanding rock outcrops.  We only drove 160 miles today, but much of it was on winding two lane roads.  Our little highway 281 eventually gave us views across a deep valley across to Cheaha Mountain.  Alas, the summit was not visible as it was lost in clouds.  However, a clearing trend was predicted, so we kept our hopes up.
 
View of the Appalachians from Highway 281.

View from the same spot towards Cheaha Mountain, lost in clouds.  We would be up there in just a few minutes. 
 
It was damp, cold, and windy when we arrived at the state park, home to Cheaha Mountain, Alabama's highest point.  It was also completely foggy, as we were in the clouds.  We delayed our drive to the very summit, instead choosing to take a scenic boardwalk out to Bald Rock.  The hike was only 0.6 miles return, but it was very scenic and we walked slowly as a result.  The CCC had developed a trail out to a scenic overlook in the 1930s, but due to slippery rocks today the boardwalk was much safer.  The fog was pretty dense when we set out from the parking lot, but gradually lifted from then on.  At the overlook no distant views presented themselves.  Instead, the highlight of this walk was the surrounding forest, lichen covered rocks, and the Bald Rock itself, at the very end.  

We only had tee shirts and light jackets, so we didn't stay at the coldest and windiest point for very long.  By the end of our return walk we began to finally meet people coming to the overlook.  We had been all alone till then.  

It was a very atmospheric walk today.
 
The rock formations were completely amazing!
 
Distant views were murky on our visit, but it was clearing.
 
Bald Rock itself.  On a clear day views stretch for miles, east towards Atlanta. 
 
By the end of the walk the fog had lifted.  We drove up to Cheaha Mountain, a short distance away.  The CCC had built a cabin and lookout tower in the 1930s, all made from local stone.  The cabin is now a CCC museum, which we visited.  The tower is still open for visitors, and we trudged up the curving stone staircase, adding another 40' or so of elevation to the mountains' 2407'.  Though the fog was lifting rapidly, it was still hazy with low clouds on our visit to the top.  Distant views were limited. Had it been a clear and sunny day we would have remained at the State Park longer, and walked a few more trails.  But we were very cold.  We had reached the highest point of our journey, and had received fitting mountain weather.  It was to be all downhill from here, soon to be back at sea level.
 
The incredibly beautiful cabin built by the CCC atop Cheaha Mountain.
 
Take a moment to really examine closely the incredible stone work on the CCC tower.
 
View down to the parking area from the tower.

Though it was clearing, views were still poor on our visit.
 
 
By lunchtime we were well down the mountain, and it was sunny.  We had a picnic lunch on the courthouse steps in Ashland, seat of Clay County.  The beautiful old courthouse was closed, being a Saturday.  Likewise the State capitol building in Montgomery, our next destination.

Ashland courthouse.  We ate lunch beneath the large tree.  The building was closed today, unfortunately.
 
View looking up from our lunch bench at the old courthouse. 
 
We arrived at our final new city of the road trip, and it was getting close to coffee time.  The downtown area of Montgomery fulfilled all of our needs today.  There was a tourist information centre with local maps and good restrooms.  There was a really good bookstore, a wonderful cafe, a legendary brewery and a vegan restaurant.  Heaven!  It was also a pleasant town in which to stroll.  In short, we really enjoyed our afternoon visit.  We began with a long stop at Prevail Union Cafe, sitting outdoors in a shaded alleyway, protected from the strong wind.  Rosa Parks once worked in the building.  It is being restored and repurposed.  The cafe sold coffee beans, and we bought a bag to bring home.
 
Afterwards, we took a long walk through the downtown to the riverfront.  There was a large public park along the Alabama River.  We ended up finally at Common Bond Brewery, which shares a restored old building with a pizza restaurant.  We claimed two comfortable arm chairs.  The beer selection was the very best, as were the actual ales.  We enjoyed a very high ceiling room with large windows just beneath the ceiling on two walls.  Another old abandoned factory put to very good use!  After our beer flight ran low I ordered a pint of amber ale.  Deb phoned in an order of food from nearby Vegan Bae, and I soon went to pick it up.  It was still very sunny and windy.  The food was delicious and we ended up spending a long time at the pub.  But we finally did pack up and head back to the centre of town, where we had parked the car (free) all day.  We arrived at our hotel tired buy happy after a long but very fun day.
 
Statue of Rosa Parks, where she caught her bus every day.  One of her rides home was to forever change America.  The State Capitol Building is behind her in the distance.
 
State Capitol Building from the centre of downtown Montgomery.

Restored historic building downtown, for sale.

The old millinery building where Rosa Parks worked is now a very fine cafe.  We sat in the open alleyway behind the white facade.
 
Prevail Union Cafe, downtown Montgomery.

View from our cafe table.
 
 
Public park on the Alabama River, downtown Montgomery.
 
Looking upstream this time.
 
Our vehicle, as we look from the river towards the old market building.  An underpass led from the river back into the downtown area.  Long passing trains can thus be avoided.
 
State Capitol of Alabama, up close.

More restored historic downtown buildings.
 
There's no place like home.

Best of the best.
 
On offer at Common Bond.

Inside the pub.

 

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Our final day of road tripping dawned sunny and mild.  It was a Sunday.  We would drive south from Montgomery to the Florida Panhandle, then turn west along I 10 and follow the Gulf Coast until we reached the outskirts of New Orleans.  Today we would drive 355 miles, with only a brief stop in northwest Florida to visit that state's highpoint.  All week we had been getting messages from my brother Stephen regarding my Dad's condition in the hospital.  Today, at 11:30 a.m., we received news of his passing.  We were 30 minutes from Florida, and were soon stopping at the highpoint.  Thoughts of my Dad were swirling in my head during our stop.  It was a truly beautiful little park, and we were alone.  Somewhere in the distance a peacock was crowing.  Dad would have liked a visit to this place, and likely would have got a chuckle at the height of the highpoint.  The trees were blowing in a soft breeze, the blue sky was immaculate, the temperature warm but not hot.  Dad had never been to New Orleans, and had been looking forward to our upcoming visit and hearing about our trip.

Britton Hill is the lowest state highpoint among the 50 (Alaska has the highest).  At 345', it seems to get few visitors.  Lakewood Park had benches and restrooms.  We spent about 20 minutes before turning west and heading back to our starting point from five days ago.  Once on the interstate highway we soon left Florida behind.  We passed again through the south part of Alabama.  Then came a swathe of Mississippi, and finally Louisiana again.  We spent the night in Sidell, just north of New Orleans.  The rest of our journey (1 1/2 days) would be spent in New Orleans.



No need to worry about elevation sickness in Florida.  
 

The park was surrounded by woods.  There was a walking trail.
 
Our vehicle for the week. 
 
Mapman Mike


 

 

 




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